Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Rock-a-bye Salmon

Ladies and Gentlemen, it’s time to eat some fish. Introducing the world’s easiest way to cook fish…the Hoiru-Yaki. You probably know what Yaki means by now (for those of you don’t, it means to grill or to cook in Japanese) but what the heck is Hoiru? Yes, it’s one of those classic cases of, what I refer to as, a Japanese-English term that comes from the English word foil, as in aluminum foil. We're going to take advantage of this multi-purpose, amazingly popular stuff, maximize the consumption of Omega-3 fatty acids from the fish and reap the awesome benefits of Shiitake. In addition, you’ll minimize the ordeal of dealing with the aftermath of cooking.


Hoiru-Yaki
The application of aluminum foil, in outdoor and indoor cooking, is a common practice for its functionality, as well as for its convenience, and when the Japanese use this method to cook fish, it is often referred to as Sakana-no Hoiru-Yaki (which translates into something like fish cooked in aluminum foil). For a country that is accustomed to eating so many varieties and quantities of fish, this method can be very practical.

The meat or flesh of some types of fish is so delicate/ fragile, that it can be very challenging, especially for unskilled beginners, to cook or grill nicely without it breaking apart. Of course, the fish is still edible, even if it falls apart, but its presentation will be something to be desired. The use of aluminum foil can definitely help to solve this problem and make a fish lover’s life that much easier. Besides, cooking this way will help us to contain the Omega-3 fatty acids. So, it’s not only easier and easy on the eyes, but it can be healthier, too.

Salmon Power
Salmon is known as the king of fish oil. Yes, the good fats! We’re talking Omega-3s, which, by the way, has nothing to do with the acclaimed watchmaker. I don’t know how effective Omega-3s are for a broken heart, induced by a love affair turned sour, but they are noted for their role in preventing heart problems. In recent years, you’ve read and heard about how eating fish may reduce the risk of dying from a heart attack. Did you know, however, that it’s more about the type of fish...fatty fish such as salmon, tuna and mackerel (which are more abundant in Omega-3s) that should be spotlighted.

The cut we are using is the cross-section slice of the salmon, usually called the steak, or some may prefer the fancier term, darne of salmon. Yep, when asked what’s for dinner, instead of just answering FISH! you can say something like darne de saumon avec des champignons de Shiitake. Sorry if I didn’t write this correctly (I never took French) but doesn’t it give it a real gourmet image? No? Okay, let’s move on.

Anyway, this cut is nice and firm and it doesn’t break into pieces easily, making it suitable for cooking on the barbeque grill. Very tempting for me…but our mission, here, is to contain the fatty acids of the fish, so aluminum foil, it is! You can mosey
on over to my Grill for the Thrill post for some grilling action.

The Shiitake
For those of you who are not familiar with this word, it’s pronounced She-Tah-Ke (as in "Eh? Can’t hear you"…not Key). Sounds too foreign? Then, how about the name used in the science or medical world - Lentinus edodes or Lentinula edodes? NO CAN DO? Perhaps this is why it’s also called Black Mushrooms, Japanese Forest Mushrooms or simply Japanese Mushrooms.

The name derives from the Japanese word Shiitake(椎茸). Shii (椎) refers to the Shii Tree (Castanopsis or Quercus cuspidate) which the mushrooms (茸) are cultured on.

According to the American Cancer Society (www.cancer.org), this native mushroom of Asia is now the 2nd most commonly cultivated, edible mushroom in the world. There’s a very good reason for its popularity. It not only tastes good, but the nutritional benefits of this mushroom are just heroic! It’s sort of like, “It’s a medicine…It’s a food…It’s SuperShroom!”…for real! In terms of its nutritional benefits, Shiitake are known to reduce cholesterol, strengthen the immune system, activate your blood, and so on.

I think Kenneth Jones, a medical writer specializing in medicinal plants, sums it up pretty nicely – Shiitake: The Healing Mushroom (which is the title of his book, by the way). If you’re interested in learning more, there’s a smorgasbord of information, on this amazing mushroom. For health-related food topics, I do a lot of surfing on The World’s Healthiest Foods at www.whfoods.com.

Shiitake’s popularity has surely grown and it is widely available today…whew! When shopping for Shiitake mushrooms, you can either buy them fresh or dried.

Fresh Shiitake
They are very porous, like a sponge and absorb liquid quickly (especially the underside of the cap where the gills are) so don’t expose them to water too much. Some people just wipe the surface with a damp cloth or paper towel. I usually rinse them very quickly with tap water while singing my Shiitake song. “Ohh, who lives in a forest under the trees Shroombob Roundhat. Absorbent and tasty and nutritious is he Shroombob Roundhat” – and I don’t even have rug rats (kids).

Dried Shiitake
Just because you can’t find fresh ones, don’t think that you have to settle for dried ones and get discouraged. Dried Shiitake, that have been sun-dried, are richer in Vitamin D than the fresh ones, due to the exposure to ultraviolet rays. But not all dried Shiitake, sold today, are dried under this natural condition, so look for a brand that says Sun-Dried. Typically, sun-dried Shiitake Mushrooms are more expensive than non-sun-dried ones.

In Japan, dried Shiitake mushrooms are generally categorized into 3 varieties. Donko (冬茹 or どんこ), Koshin (香信) and Kouko (香茹).

Donko
Donko is the variety that is typically picked early, before the caps open, making them look bulky and thick. When this closed-cap Donko variety is sun-dried, it is considered to be the highest grade of Shiitake and is said to have the most medicinal value.

Koshin
The Koshin variety, on the other hand, has an opened cap that resembles an umbrella in use. The caps are often much thinner than the Donko variety and perhaps falls into the more common grade of Shiitake.

Kouko
Finally, the Kouko variety has big, thick caps and falls in between the other two varieties. Because it has the unique attributes of both Donko and Koshin, it is a common gift item in Japan.

For our featured dish, we’ll stick to the common Koshin variety, but if you can’t find whole, dried Shiitake mushrooms, a pre-sliced version will work, too.

Mushroom CPR
Before cooking dried Shiitake mushrooms, we need to revive them and perhaps the best way is to reward them with a special holiday package. If it’s a sunny day, let them hit the sun deck. By doing this, they will reward you back with supercharged Vitamin D. After they enjoy the sun (give them at least 30 minutes to 2 hours) they need to take a quick shower. Followed by the rinsing action, it is time for a dip in the pool and let the rehydration treatment begin.

Soak the dried Shiitake mushrooms in cold water. They tend to float to the top, so weight (plastic bowl or something) them down, to keep them submerged. Depending on the size, I’d soak them for at least 5 hours. Although we’re not going to use the stems for this dish, they usually require more time to reconstitute, and the same goes for the Donko variety, due to its thickness.

Many people even soak the dried Shiitake mushrooms, overnight, in the fridge. You’ll get better results this way, keeping the savoriness of the mushrooms intact, but if you're in a hurry, soak in lukewarm water with a pinch of sugar for about 40 minutes (1 hour in the case of the Donko variety). Some people use hot water or microwave oven to expedite the process, but patience is truly a virtue, here. Whether you soak them overnight or use lukewarm water, what is important, is to make sure that the dried Shiitake mushrooms are fully reconstituted.

Once they are fully revived and refreshed after their holiday package, they are ready to go to work. Place them in a strainer and have them stand by for action. By the way, whatever you do, don’t discard the water that the dried Shiitake was soaked in. It’s full of good stuff. I usually use it in Miso soup but some people drink it, especially when it’s been used to soak the Shiitake in overnight, in the fridge. I wouldn’t drink the mushroom-soaked water of just any brand, though. Let’s just say that, personally, I’d have to be comfortable with the brand/ grower of the Shiitake I use.

Rock-a-bye Salmon...
Okay, now that we have our salmon and Shiitake ready, let’s roll. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees. In the meantime, let’s work on the platform. When using regular aluminum foil, I usually use two sheets for extra strength but if you have Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil, one sheet will work just fine.

Spray or apply some cooking oil on the aluminum foil where the salmon is going to be placed. If you love butter, I have a better way. Cut a few slices of butter and 2~3 slices of onions. On a large sheet of aluminum foil, line up the butter slices in a single file, starting from the mid-center of the sheet. Place the sliced onions sideways on top of the butter. This will be the sleeping platform for the salmon so try to make its bed nice and even. Personally, I like the combination of butter and Shiitake, but you can always
do it without the butter, and just place the onions on
the sprayed–on cooking oil.

Salt the salmon (and black pepper if you like) on both sides and this baby is ready to be tucked in. Lay the salmon down onto its bed and cover it with a blanket of Shiitake mushrooms. In this case, I'm using fresh Shiitake. As an option, you can add broccoli and/ or carrots into the mix. Once all the elements are in place, fold and form the aluminum foil so it covers all the ingredients, creating a cradle-like pouch.

Before sealing the opening, I add one more thing – Sake
(visit the My Three Muskateers post). I usually pour in about a 1/2 cup of Sake to join the cause. I do this not only to enhance the flavor, but it also provides me with a reference to timing.When sealing the foil, don't make the pouch too tight and allow some space for the salmon to breath. The sides or the skin of the salmon can stick to the foil.

Once the aluminum pouch is placed into the oven, the smell of evaporating Sake gives me an idea of where it stands in the cooking process. When I start to sense the evaporating smell of Sake, the steaming action has commenced. Let it steam for a little more and slightly pop open the oven door and you’ll be greeted with a strong, tangy odor that stings your nose.

Typically, this takes place 30 to 40 minutes later from the time you placed the aluminum pouch into the preheated oven. Eventually, this distinctive tang will settle down and turn into a fragrant aroma based on the harmony of Sake, Shiitake and butter. You’ll also notice a nice sizzling or searing sound, coming from all the ingredients tucked nicely inside that aluminum cradle.

Enjoy this harmony of flavors for a few more minutes and take it out of the oven to check the status. If the salmon looks nice and white, it’s pretty much done. But typically, I put it back into the oven one more time…this time with the aluminum foil unsealed, for another 5 minutes or so, to slightly brown the salmon. I do this because the wife likes it this way, but it boils down to your preference. When doing this extra process, I normally put aside the Shiitake Mushrooms to allow the entire topside of the salmon to brown.

Once cooked, garnish with fresh chives. Add some Shoyu or Soy Sauce (check out my Got Soy Sauce? post), lemon or whatever seasoning you like if you want more flavor, but before you do so, sample a piece of salmon with a bit of Shiitake first and let that taste register into your brain for future reference.


As far as the exact time in which it is required to fully cook the salmon really depends on its size, thickness, cut, the type of oven you’re using, and other variables (i.e. amount of Sake, etc.,). Although I generally let it cook for 45 to 55 minutes in my 500-degree oven, I usually depend heavily on my ears and nose (the nose, knows), rather than on my clock. After a while, you’ll be able to tell when it’s ready by smelling, hearing and/ or looking at it. Even then, the outcome may differ each time, but hey, as long as you make the effort, strive for what you want, and put your heart and soul into it, you’re the winner…aluminum foil or not.

As far as the dried Shiitake Mushrooms go, I sliced them up and decorated the salmon with them, prior to cooking. When sharing the dish, sliced Shiitake obviously works better and is often easier to eat. Also, if salmon skin turns you off, remove it after cooking. It peels off easily enough. Personally, I think this is the best part. I cook the skin (separately) just a tad longer to make it nice and crispy. And, of course, you can always plate this fish concoction if eating off aluminum foil is not your style.



Aluminum foil is awesome but I wonder if you can use it to make Origami. Hey, look at this, I guess you can. I mean, I haven't made an Origami Crane since I was a kid and I've certainly never made one with aluminum foil! Oh, well, maybe it's not a perfect crane but...close enough. In any case, a tribute to the one and only - aluminum foil. AND, a big kanpai (cheers) to the merits of Salmon and Shiitake.



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Monday, November 10, 2008

Ramen - Not Just Chow, but a State of Mind


When you ask the average Japanese person what Ramen (ラーメン) is, you could get a reply that goes something like this; Ramen is a Japanese soup noodle that originated in China. Hmm…then why not just call it Chinese soup noodle? Well, actually, it used to be called Shina Soba, which literally translates into China noodle.


Then, sometime after WWII, some scholars, and people with certain political views, decided it wasn’t politically correct to use the word Shina when referring to China. Apparently, they believed that it had a discriminatory connotation to it.

Thus, terms such as Chugoku or Chuka, which mean center of the world, supposedly became the proper language to use when referring to China. So, people had to say Chugoku Soba or Chuka Soba instead, and the familiar term of Shina Soba became socially unacceptable for some. This term sort of got pushed to the back burner.

This did not sit well with some folks, including restaurant owners. I mean, can you imagine? All of a sudden, you can’t say Hotdog, for whatever reason, and instead you had to refer to it as, for instance, Frankfurters in a bun. It’s kind of like, “Hey, lets go get some Frankfurters in a bun!” Talk about needing time to adjust!

The Name Game
Okay, so, how did Ramen get its current name, then? There are a few hypotheses about the etymology (the study of the origin/ history of words) and often becomes a topic of heated debates. Personally, I tend to go with the theory that claims it came from the Chinese word Lamian (拉麺), which basically refers to a noodle-making method, where you pull the noodles with your hands (or the type of noodle made by this method). Many think this is the most credible explanation, but then again, others have different views and opinions.

As far as when the word Ramen made its debut, again, there are different claims and I don’t think anyone really knows, for sure. But, I recently came across one that I never heard before. According to this claim, in 1950, a few years after the name-changing incident, a renowned Japanese publication, for housewives, published a book featuring Western and Chinese cooking. I assume this is when folks were still trying to get used to the transition saying, “Can I have an order of Shi…I mean, Chuka Soba?” In this publication, the term Ramen was featured as the Japanese reading/ pronunciation of the Chinese word Lamian. Boom!

Thanks to the power of the media, the term Ramen spread like wildfire in a dry, windy forest. Speaking of media, there’s no more powerful medium than the word of mouth. And, I think that women are bar-none when it comes to spreading the word, if you know what I mean. It’s a compliment, ladies! The timing in which, the way it reached the masses (Japanese housewives) and the consistency with the etymology that many support, in my opinion, gives this claim some traction. Also, it's worth noting that, similar to how the GIs who returned home, from Italy, with a taste for Pizza after WWII, I imagine many Japanese soldiers, who spent time in China, had a great appreciation for this Chinese-style soup noodle.

Again, this is just my interpretation and besides, personally, how and when Ramen got its name is not my main concern here, as long as I can enjoy a nice bowl of it, every now and then. Nonetheless, it is interesting, how this soup noodle dish evolved.

The Art of Adaptation
As the number of Chinese folks increased across the port cities of Japan and formed their own, small communities (often referred to as China Town, today) in the late 1800s, restaurants (perhaps more like stands/stalls) that catered to them appeared, as well. After a while, local Japanese started to challenge this foreign cuisine. Some adjustments, such as adding Shoyu (Soy Sauce) and other ingredients/ toppings, that were familiar to the Japanese, were needed to make it more appealing to the locals.

It’s sort of like how Sushi got Americanized, with local creations such as California Rolls. As the popularity of this soup noodle grew, so did its styles and variations. Many different regions, cities and towns came up with their own versions, often equipped with their original soup bases, noodles and toppings, which typically consisted of fresh, local ingredients and specialties.

I mean we're not talking about just New York and Chicago-style pizzas. How about adding San Diego, Dallas, Springfield, Miami, Georgetown and many others to the list of pizza styles. Basically, that’s what the modern Ramen scene, in Japan, boils down to. Some people are so obsessed with Ramen. I mean, I've read about people who travel around Japan just to taste some of the local varieties. There are those who actually look forward to business trips because they're scheduled to visit a certain area known for its Ramen. And, talk about the intensity, of Japanese blogs and websites, devoted entirely to this subject.

So, here’s the deal. Although the original concept came from China, I believe it evolved and got adapted into the local food scene; it sort of mutated into another form of dish, as a spin-off, if you will, and became Ramen, as we refer to it today. So there is some truth to the definition – Ramen is a Japanese soup noodle that originated in China, but at the same time, some will give you a much deeper explanation. I'm not a Ramen fanatic, but for some, they really mean business.

Today in Japan, the term Chuka Soba (中華そば) is still used. One often comes across restaurants in Japan with Chuka Soba banners, instead of Ramen banners. According to many, these two basically mean the same thing, but the difference is in the history and in some cases, the region. Perhaps the term Chuka Soba provides a sense of nostalgia and distinguishes itself from the modern version - Ramen. If you’re ever in Japan, you can stop by one of these Chuka-Soba-bannered shops and make your own comparison.

Whatever the truth is behind this intricate dish, I suppose it can provide us with something to talk about while standing in a long line, waiting to be seated at a popular Ramen shop on a Friday night (I hate it when there's nothing to talk about and I catch myself staring at people slurping their Ramen).

Instant Ramen
If you can’t find a decent Ramen place nearby, try making your own at home. Most supermarkets carry Instant Ramen in their Oriental/ Asian sections, with packages that include the noodles and soup base mix. Although some of the toppings typically used for Ramen may be a little difficult to find, remember, it’s all about evolution and adaptation! We’ll use topping ingredients that are available in most stores across the U.S., so all you need to do is find the Instant Ramen. But beware, it’s not going to be so instant because we’re going to beef it up...I mean literally. Before we go out and get our Instant Ramen, let us take a brief look at what we are dealing with.

Today, Instant Ramen can be categorized into 3 basic types. In Japan, they are typically referred to as Fukuro Men, Cup Men and Nama-type Men.

Fukuro Men
Fukuro Men essentially means Bagged Noodles (Fukuro=Bag, Men=Noodle) and usually refers to the Instant Noodle similar to its original form (soup base mix already incorporated into the noodles), which was invented by Momofuku Ando, the founder of Nissin Foods, back in 1958. The concept of storable, easy-to- prepare noodles has been around in China for hundreds of years, but the debut of Nissin’s first Instant noodle called Chicken (Chikin) Ramen led to a revolutionary landmark in Japanese food culture. Talk about instant success! Sorry, I had to go there.

Nissin currently has 29 plants in 11 countries, so you may be able to find their products in just about any part of the world. This type uses precooked, dried noodles and comes with a packet of soup base mix (usually powered).

Cup Men
Another popular type of Instant Ramen is the Cup Men. This is even easier because you basically just pour hot water into the Styrofoam cup or bowl. You may have to work a little harder when it comes to the bowl type. A lot of these require you to open the accompanying packets of soup base mix and toppings, and THEN pour in the hot water. What can I say…life is tough. Again, it was Nissin who introduced the famous Cup Noodle in 1971.

Today, you’ll find various types of brands and varieties in this form, not just for Ramen but also for other types of noodles, including Spaghetti! Many include your basic vegetables and meats so you, essentially, don’t need to prepare any toppings.

Nama-type Men
Wow! The interpretation of this can be a little tricky. Now, Nama means raw/ pure/ untreated in Japanese, but in this case, perhaps this type of Men can be interpreted as Fresh, which generally means unheated or non-dried noodles, which are often refrigerated or frozen for preservation. However, the broader definition of Nama-type Men includes noodles that have been steamed, boiled, fried or partially dried. As you can see in the photo, Nama-type Men looks and feels fresh/ raw, and doesn’t look like the fully dried ones in the Fukuro Men. Also, the soup base mix is usually in liquid form and not powdered.

So Many Choices!
Now that you've explored the different types of Instant Ramen, you need to select which flavor or style you want. Since it breaks down into so many different kinds and varieties, let's keep it as simple as possible. We’re going to add our own toppings, so all we need are the noodles and the soup base mix. Personally, I like the Nama-type Men, but if you can’t find it, make a selection from the Fukuro Men varieties.

To minimize the confusion, here are some Ramen basics, in a nutshell. First, chicken or pork bones (or their extracts), often combined with other ingredients, are usually used for the stock. In addition, the soup is typically seasoned with Shoyu (Soy Sauce), Shio (Salt) or Miso (Fermented Soybean Paste). So, if I want a pork-bone-based soup with Shoyu flavor, I look for Tonkotsu (pork bones) Shoyu Ramen. Simple enough, right? Not so fast! In this competitive field, brands need to distinguish themselves among their counterparts and come up with all sorts of unique representations on their packages – Savory Herb Chicken Flavor, for instance. Then you have Oriental Flavor. Now, what the heck does that mean? Does it mean they also have European or Latin Flavors, too?

In any case, since we're going to be beefing up our Instant Ramen, keep it plain and simple. Just get a regular Shoyu Ramen or even Chicken-Flavored is fine. While you’re at it, make sure you get some garlic if you don’t already have some at home.

Ready...here we go...

Not-So-Instant Ramen
First, we're going to beef up the Instant Ramen with what? Beef! Get some short ribs (bones and fat). We’re going to stew this baby for a long time. I usually start cooking the ribs the day before to get them nice and tender. How am I going to stew the beef? Yes, you’ve guessed it – with help from my friends, the Three Musketeers. For those of you who don’t have a clue about what I’m talking about, please refer to the My Three Musketeers post.

Place the short ribs into a saucepan and add about 1/2 a cup each of Shoyu and Mirin (Japanese Cooking Sake/ Wine). Pour in about a couple of cups of Sake, and add slices of garlic and ginger. You may add carrots and/or onions for added flavor. Add some water so the surface of the beef is covered (those of you who know me, KNOW that I prefer to add beer instead). Bring it to a boil, then lower the heat and do a slow-cook job on it. Skim the broth as often as required.

When I prepare this the day before, I cook on low heat for a few hours (anywhere from 2 to 5, with the lid on), let it cool down, place in the fridge overnight and cook for another few hours, on low heat, the next day. That's right, these babies will be sliding off the bones...slip, sliding awaaay...If you want to eat it the same day, we’ll half the action. Heat on high temperature for about 5 hours. I warned you, this is Not So Instant!

Boiled eggs are often used as a topping for Ramen. Our next step is to beef up these babies, too. Boil some eggs as you normally do. While they're cooling, we’re going to make a sauce for them. Again, we need our friends, the Three Musketeers. Pour exactly the same proportion of Shoyu, Sake, Mirin and water into a pot. Peel and place the eggs into the sauce.

Let it come to a boil, add some Bonito flakes (Katsuobushi) if you have some and continue boiling for another 10 minutes. Let it cool down and settle. It tastes much better refrigerated overnight. I usually make these guys the day before, as well. These eggs are called Ni Tamago (stewed eggs) or Aji-Tsuke Tamago (Flavor-added eggs) and there are other ways to make them but this is probably the easiest.

Check out the difference between the regular boiled eggs and the beefed-up version, in the photo. You probably can't tell from the photo, but the texture is different and it adds another dimension to this dish. The taste of Shoyu is a little strong if you eat them as is, but boy, do they compliment the noodles. It's definitely worth spending the time to do this.

After you prepare other toppings such as boiled spinach, corn, Chinese snow peas, etc., get ready to boil the noodles. By the way, green onions are a must (in my house) so chop some up and have them ready to join in on the fun. Now, some people use the same pot to boil the noodles and prepare the soup. I usually use a separate pot to boil the water for the soup. Why? Well, because we're going to prepare the bowl, so to speak.

Here comes the final step in the Beef-up Instant Ramen project. You got it, grating the garlic. Time to get nice and stinky. A garlic press works well for those who to own one. After grating some garlic gloves, place into the bowl, add a small amount of your favorite Shoyu (Got Soy Sauce? post), and pour in the soup base mix.

With the toppings, soup base mix powered by garlic and Shoyu waiting at the starting line, we’re all set to boil the noodles. Pour the noodles into boiling water and cook according to the instructions. I usually cook them a little less than instructed to keep them al dente. If the instructions say 2 1/2 minutes, I'll do 2 minutes.

When boiling the noodles, use a chopstick to spread them apart. While the noodles are cooking, add some hot water (enough to dissolve the guys at the starting line) into the bowl and give all the players a good stir. Once the noodles are done, drain the water and pour into the bowl. Add more hot water to the bowl and adjust the amount so it barely covers the noodles. I even add a couple of spoonfuls of the beef stew broth. Give it a final stir and add the toppings...
congratulations, you’ve just made yourself a Not-So-Instant version of Instant Ramen!


It’s all about evolution and adaptation. If the toppings go well with the noodles and the soup, heck, use what you have and make your own version. In the meantime, I’ll just call my version the Cowboy Ramen. Well, the one in the photo doesn’t have much beef so we’ll call it a mini-Cowboy Ramen. Anyway, you get the point.

"Whoa, Nellie!"..."Hold your Horses!"...The Texan Cowboy Ramen just made its appearance!



What, NO CAN EAT BEEF? Not to worry, here's a veggie lovers delight. Including the Portobello mushrooms, I have 7 items as toppings so I’ll call it the Lucky 7 Ramen Special.


The Portobello makes an excellent substitute for meat. I even used the AJ2000X to cook the Portobello. For those of you who don’t know what the AJ2000X is, please check out my previous posting called Grill for the Thrill. When coming up with your own version, here’s a little hint. When I cook the Portobello for Ramen, I use butter instead of olive oil. Butter goes well with Ramen. If you come up with an awesome creation, share it with the rest of us.

Oh, by the way, according to Nissin Foods www.nissinfoods.com, it’s pronounced rah-men, not ray-men. Then again, although the Japanese use the letter “r” when writing words in English, it’s different than how it’s used in English and the “r" isn't rolled. So I’d say it’s more like lah-men.

This is NOT the end of the road for this topic. We'll be traveling this path a lot more in the future. You know...my gut feeling tells me that the evolution of Ramen will continue…

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Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Mr. Pork Belly does Utopia


Whenever I get impatient or irritated over nothing, it’s usually from fatigue. In addition, I start to lose my concentration and focus, so it’s not really a good condition to be in, while caught in that infamous, Los Angeles traffic. Talk about potential road rage. I’d probably get shot with a semiautomatic for making stupid gestures or honking over some insignificant, minor incident.


When I’m in this physical and mental mode…I think PORK. Pork is said to be a very good source of vitamin B1 (thiamin or thiamine), which helps in treating fatigue and irritability. I understand that thiamin is used, by many doctors, to help improve brain function and to treat mental-health problems. Hello! Perhaps there’s a connection here, since I tend to crave pork quite often! My brain seems to automatically trigger an alarm that my GCA (Going Crazy Alert) level is extremely high and it propels me to ingest thiamin, immediately. How the human body functions, is just amazing, isn’t it? I tend to cook certain foods based on what my body is telling me at the time. It’s a deficiency indicator. At least for me, it is.

Now, I also understand that heat applied in cooking destroys this vitamin and, generally, the loss is greater in meats compared to other foods. But, since I’ve heard that pork contains almost 10 times more vitamin B1 than beef, I figure that even if I lose most of the thiamin in the cooking process, I’ll still manage to get some. I try to minimize the damage by cooking at a lower temperature, and by not overcooking the pork.

Then again, I usually soak the pork in Sake to tenderize it, which is a big NO, NO because they say alcohol, like caffeine, causes the destruction of thiamin, as well. With all the coffee and booze I consume, no wonder I’m always cranky! On top of which, the section of pork I like the most, contains less thiamin compared to other (i.e. tenderloin) cuts anyway, so I guess I just have to rely on other food sources or supplements to get my daily dosage of vitamin B1, after all. Am I making any sense? What am I talking about? Am I going crazy? Not to worry, it’s PORK time! GCA! GCA! Bleep! Bleep!

What is this section of pork I’m talking about? It’s called Butabara, in Japanese, and it literally means pork belly. No, I don’t mean the stomach or the intestines - it’s the underside of the pork with layers of meat and fat. When this guy is cured or smoked, you’ll recognize him. You know, Bacon? No, no, not Kevin, but the guy who hangs around the breakfast counter.

I like Butabara so much that whenever I go out to eat at a Kushiyaki joint, I place this order first. By the way, for those who are not familiar, Kushiyaki refers to grilled, skewered morsels of meat, seafood or vegetable (a place that specializes in chicken would serve Yakitori, which translates into grilled bird/ chicken).

For a beer drinker and a grilled-food lover like myself, it is just a heavenly experience. In any case, the reason I order Butabara first, is because I’ve had my share, of direful moments, of placing the order only to find out that they’ve run out of the pork belly skewers. This is NOT good.

I often order multiple times during the course of the meal. At this one-man-operation joint I used to frequent, where the owner/ chef cooks all kinds of Japanese foods and serves them over the counter, I’d get scolded for ordering Butabara so often. His reasoning was that, to grill Butabara you really have to pay close attention to it, making it tougher on him to juggle other tasks and orders. Since I grill my own Butabara at home, I share his frustration.

But, please, let this not discourage you in any way! If you have a hankering for a little slice of paradise, this is my version of it.

Now, let us begin our indoor, artificial grilling experience with Butabara. Please check out my previous, Grill for the Thrill posting, on indoor grilling.

Before you can start to cook Butabara, you’ll need to get one. I get my block at a Japanese grocery store. These days, I see more and more of these Butabara blocks being sold at Japanese stores around my neighborhood, perhaps reflecting its popularity. Although you will not typically see a packaged cut like this (as shown in the photo) in the meat section of your favorite supermarket, your local butcher will, most likely, be able to accommodate your needs.

I’ve also noticed pork belly slices sold at Korean grocery stores. If you can’t get a Butabara block, these slices can work just as well. Either way, we’ll stick to cooking them as is, using the same method as our Teriyaki Chicken Wings (Grill for the Thrill post).

Like some people, some pork bellies have thick skins (pork rind). I mean, literally. Nothing wrong with thick skin, but just get your jaw ready for a good workout. If you don’t like chewy stuff, remove the rind prior to eating. I’ve found that it’s easier to remove after cooking. Some places sell Butabara with the rind already removed, but if you do end up with a thick-skinned piece of pork, it’s a good idea to score (cut into with a knife) the rind prior to cooking. I score a lot of food when cooking, but I guess it’s not as easy to score at a bar.

As we did with our Teriyaki Chicken Wings, we will be utilizing the AJ2000. But wait! We now have a new and improved model called the AJ2000X. This version features a non-stick cooking pan (instead of the aluminum container), with a self-standing, crossbar cooking grate suited for small or thinly-sliced food items. I seldom see this cooking grate around, but managed to find one at a local, Japanese grocery.

The stands can be folded in and can be used as a hanging device. It’s a handy, little gadget for camping and I also use it as an accessory to my Weber grill. If you wish to continue using the original AJ2000… not a problem, it’ll work just as well.

Now, as usual, I soak the pork in Sake for 30 minutes (as always, if you want to soak it longer, keep it in the fridge - no longer than 4 hours, and take it out 30 minutes prior to cooking). The alcohol in the Sake will seep into the pork and tenderize it, as it draws in the flavor. Oh, no! I forgot that I’m probably destroying the vitamin B1! Oh, well, since Butabara is not the tenderest section of pork, like the tenderloin cut, some sacrifices must be made. Besides, I’ll eat the Butabara with brown rice tonight. Yes, brown rice is also a very good source of vitamin B1.

Since I want to enjoy my Butabara plain and simple, with only some salt and pepper, and a splash of lemon, I usually don’t add any seasoning or marinade elements during the Sake- soaking action. If you want a little more flavor, feel free to add some Shoyu (Japanese Soy Sauce) and Mirin (Sweet Cooking Wine/Sake). However, unlike a Teriyaki marinade, I’d decrease the amount of Shoyu and Mirin. For every cup of Sake, I’d add about 1/5 cup of Shoyu and Mirin, respectively. For more information on cooking with Sake, Mirin and Shoyu, please refer to the My Three Musketeers post.

I have to say, though, that to experience the true flavor of this pork, no seasoning (prior to grilling) is required. The pork fat, in itself, is really flavorful. Again, just a tiny pinch of salt and pepper, before eating, is enough for me.

To cook the Butabara, we’re basically going to follow the same procedure as the Teriyaki Chicken Wings, but we’ll be cooking it at a lower temperature (and without the Teriyaki Sauce). Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and grab yourself a beer, or whatever it is that you like to drink, because it can take anywhere from 1.5 to 2 hours, or even longer, depending on the size/ thickness of the cut and the type of oven. But…man (and woman), will it be worth it, let me tell you.

Once the oven is heated, add 1 1/2 cups of water into the AJ2000(X), and place it in the oven. We’re basically warming up the unit, getting it ready for the cooking action. When the AJ2000(X) has warmed up nicely, take the unit out (remember the oven mitts), spray some oil on the grate and load the Butabara with the fat/ skin side facing up.

If you’re using a thinly sliced Butabara cut and it can’t stand up on its own, (fat/ skin side up), just lay it on its side. Pop in that pork and make sure (for better results) that the surface of the Butabara is leveled in the middle. With my oven, this means that the oven rack is on the second-to-the-last rung, or so.

After about 5 minutes, turn down the temperature to 300 degrees. If the height/ thickness of the Butabara block measures approximately 1.5 inches, I’d leave it in the oven for 50 to 60
minutes; less if less and more if more (height/ thickness). Either
way, be sure to peek inside, every so often, and check the status.

If the surface is browning too rapidly, you may want to open the oven door for a few seconds, let the heat escape and turn down the temperature slightly. The idea is to slow cook on low heat, and let Mr. Pork Belly get his nice, dark tan. As the surface gets heated, you’ll notice the fat bubbling and oozing from the meat. Keep your eye on him and let this process continue…slowly. After 60 minutes, he should look like this photo.

He’s going to continue cooking even more when turned over, so you don’t want this first side to be anywhere near black, at this point.

Once you see the nice dark tan, turn him over and let the other side get its share of rays. He even brought his own suntan oil (Piggertone and Porkanana Boat) so if you give him the right heat temperature and enough time, he’ll be looking just fine. Just have a dialog with him, every now and then, and ask how the temperature is. If you listen carefully, you can almost hear his response. If you hear a nice, slow yet consistent sizzling sound, you know that he’s loving it!

Unless you have a cold, you’ll also notice the hearty aroma of cooked pork. For me, it’s this interaction with food that makes cooking so fun and interesting. Just don’t talk out loud during this interaction or people around you may think you’ve finally lost it. Talk about being B1-deficient! GCA! GCA! Bleep! Bleep!

After another hour or so (in the case of the 1.5-inch block, as shown in the photo), he’s ready. But, as much as I (my real, outdoor grilling persona) hate doing this, I usually turn him over just one more time, switch the oven to broil mode and toast the fat/ skin portion just a little more, to get that full crispiness.

Typically, at this juncture, you’ll find me sitting in front of the oven, with the door slightly open and eyeing the crisping action, so that Mr. Pork Belly doesn’t turn out looking like a Saturday morning, cartoon character that just got blown up by some TNT
(not the TV channel but the explosive). Does The Coyote ring a bell?

After this last, finishing touch, take the Butabara out of the oven and let it settle on a separate plate/ surface, for a few minutes (I usually do 3 to 5), at room temperature. Leave the AJ2000(X) in the oven, with the heat on. It’s said that onion and garlic help to absorb vitamin B1 (what’s left of it anyway)
into your system, so why not have some, to compliment the pork.

Chunks of raw, Maui Onion would be awesome right
now, but I’ll have to stick with what I have. So, I'll add some regular, white onion and garlic slices (or whole cloves), to the AJ2000(X) while the Butabara is settling. This is why I suggested you leave the unit in the oven. The AJ2000X comes in really handy, here. See how its cooking grate prevents the small pieces from falling off?

I ran out of white onions, so I scrounged around and found some leftover Tokyo Negi (giant green onions). The garlic...well, I always have garlic on hand. It would be a sin for me to ever run out of it. You won't find Dracula anywhere near my house, that's for sure.

Oh, and you might be interested to know that the more you crush or chop a garlic clove, the better (medicinally) it is for you. A substance, called Allicin, starts doing its magic. It's also found in onions. My understanding is that, Allicin makes it easier to absorb vitamin B1 into your system. I have to tell you...as a garlic lover, rest assured, that there will be more on this topic.

Cut off a thin slice of Butabara and try it with salt and pepper, and a splash of fresh lemon, if you like. All that attention and hard work, to cook this guy, seems to pay off after that first, succulent bite. Timing is everything, here. It’s better to take that first bite as soon as the settling action is done. Have you ever wondered why dudes hang out around the BBQ grill? After experiencing that first bite, your onion and garlic should be done. So have at it!


The Butabara can be an appetizer or can even be used as a topping for Ramen (Japanese soup noodles), which I intend to do, tonight. Umm…I’m out of brown rice. Ah…that’s right, that’s what it was, now I remember! He, he, he!

Hey, you know how much I love charcoal grilling outdoors. This indoor, artificial grilling is simply a means of survival (when you have to have that grilling experience and fat-dripping action, but can’t be outdoors), which, I must admit, does have its advantages…like more heat temperature control. The AJ2000(X) will be appearing in future posts, that’s for sure.

More importantly, I guess it’s all about the balance. Eating a little from each of the different food groups is ideal, but is often difficult to practice. I mean, I have vitamin supplements for dessert, every day.

There’s nothing fancy about these recipes (if you can call them that, which I don’t like to) but with a little patience and a willingness to try, you can enjoy tasty, Japanese-style, comfort food at home.

Vitamin B1 is not the only cure for fatigue and irritability. I don’t know…touching and cooking (playing with) food; it has a certain, soothing effect on me. I forget all about that darn L.A. traffic, I was in, a few hours ago.

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Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Grill for the Thrill


Grilling outdoors is not only my favorite means of cooking…it’s my passion. If I could, I would probably grill every, single day. The weather here, in Southern California, allows me to do so, pretty much all year 'round (though I’ve also grilled in snowy and rainy conditions, in the past).


But since I’m a charcoal kind of a guy, it’s not really ideal to grill every day, for a couple of reasons. First, I don’t want to waste charcoal just to grill a small meal for one or two people, unless I’m preparing additional food for later consumption, which I often do – cook and freeze. Second, I live in a condensed neighborhood, and if I charcoal grill every day (often using wood chips/chunks), my neighbors would probably start to complain with all that smoke and stuff. I’ve encountered hints from my neighbors, a number of times, expressed by the sounds of windows sliding shut. Kachunk! That’s a big enough of a hint for me, let me tell you. Besides, I like my neighbors.

Gas grills would be a wise choice, here, but I just don’t like dealing with propane, for some reason. I suppose I like charcoal because it gives me that primal, caveman-like experience, and the incomparable challenge you have, each time, in dealing with live fire. Besides, in my opinion, the food just tastes so much better! So, as often as I can, I make contact with my old pal, the dome-shaped, black grill named Weber.

Speaking of that dome-shaped grill, it’s been around for decades, and has been a common sight at backyard barbeque parties across the nation, since the Wonder Years. Do you know how it all got started? In the early ‘50s, a determined backyard griller, from Illinois, got tired of using his open brazier (that exposed his food to wind and ashes) and decided to make his own grill. At the time, Mr. Backyard griller worked for a sheet metal shop, welding metal spheres together to make buoys for Lake Michigan. All the elements necessary, to come up with a perfect grill, were in place. With 3 legs and a lid, he transformed the buoy into a revolutionary, lean, mean, grilling machine. His name? George Stephen, founder of Weber-Stephen Products Company.

Well, I’m no George Stephen but I have my own, little invention or indoor grilling method, if you will. Although I use the term grilling, some may argue that it’s actually baking or broiling because I use the stove oven. When I charcoal grill chicken, on my Weber, I put the lid on and have the temperature at medium heat (around 350 to 450F), to ensure thorough/even cooking. I basically use the same principle, by artificially creating a similar condition with the stove oven. It still gives you the benefit of grilling, in terms of fat dripping off the meat, and it’s easier than dealing with the greasy aftermath of cooking with a frying pan. Although I wouldn't use this indoor grilling method to cook a steak, some dishes turn out really well and I'd like to share one with you.

Before you start cooking, you need to assemble what I call the AJ2000. It stands for Aluminum Joe and it originated 8 years ago. Yes, I have a name for it in case I want to patent it someday. Yeah, right! Well, actually, I started this method by using a tray, with a rack on it, that is typically used for dripping off excess oil prior to serving fried foods such as Tempura (batter-fried veggies/seafood) and Tonkatsu (pork cutlet). As you can see in the photo, the gadget I'd been using got abused and beaten up pretty bad over
the years and I was looking for a replacement, when I
realized a simple alternative.

Basically, you need a cookie cooling rack and an aluminum container. Usually, you’ll find the two in the same section or aisle, of any large supermarket. Place the rack onto the top, inner edge of the aluminum container and check the fit. If it’s a firm, stable fit, the two were meant for each other. The last thing you want is to have your rack slide off, when taking the unit out of the oven, drop your food on the floor and burn yourself in the process. Also, a single aluminum container can become deformed (bent/twisted), when weight or pressure is applied, so it would be wiser to purchase 2 containers and stack them for added sturdiness.

Teriyaki Chicken Wings
Snap the joints of the raw wings so they’ll cook a little more evenly; it also makes it easier to eat later. Ladies, you don’t want Teriyaki sauce all over your face looking like a man with a five o’clock shadow, now do you. By snapping or breaking the joint, you're bending the bone backwards, giving the wing less of an angle. You don't have to be a blackbelt in martial arts and the chicken won't tap and give up either. After all, it's already dead. So don't worry about hurting the chicken and give it a nice twist and snap.

Although I cook mine as is, some people poke the thick portion of the meat with a thin, bamboo skewer or cut into it with a knife, for better heat penetration. After handling the chicken, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly with soap and hot water, before you touch anything else. Don’t become THE CONTAMINATOR.

Marinade the chicken, in Teriyaki sauce, for at least 30 minutes (at room temperature) or for up to 4 hours in the refrigerator to prevent food-borne illnesses. For best results, let stand at room temperature, for about 30 minutes after removing from the refrigerator. If you have some leftover Teriyaki sauce from a week or two ago, this is the time to use it (check out my previous posting, entitled My Three Musketeers, on homemade Teriyaki sauce).

If you don’t have enough Teriyaki sauce to fully cover the chicken wings, use a plastic bag to ensure all surface areas get coated in the marinade. Massage the sauce in well. The sharp edges of the wings can rip through the plastic so be sure to use a thick plastic bag and/or double the bag for extra protection. Believe me, you don’t want Teriyaki sauce, that’s been in contact with raw chicken, spilling in your refrigerator! If you’re going to refrigerate the plastic bag, place a bowl/container under it.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Once the oven is heated, pour about 1 1/2 cups of water into the AJ2000 and place it in the oven. If you don’t add water to the container, the fat and juice drippings from the meat will leave a black mark that will be hard to scrub off. You’ll not only ruin the container for future usage, but the smell and smoke will not be pleasant, so be sure to add water.

Again, make sure the rack is firmly set onto the container. At this point, I’m just heating up the grill or the cooking grate, so to speak. The rack of the AJ2000 needs to do its warm up before taking on the action. Notice I'm using the broil mode (the upper heating element of the oven) to heat the cooking grate so it warms up faster. If you do the same, just remember to switch back to your original bake mode (lower heating element) of about 400 degrees F. Now, you two-wheeled enthusiasts get it…it’s hard to perform
well on cold tires. That's what a warm-up lap is all about.

Once the AJ2000 has warmed up, take it out of the oven (make sure you have your oven mitts on), spray some oil on the cooking grate and place the chicken wings, with the skin side facing down, onto the heated rack. I usually pour some of the remaining Teriyaki sauce on top of the chicken for one, final dip prior to cooking, but otherwise discard the marinade.

Place the AJ2000 on the lower rack of the oven so that the wings are positioned near the center. Cook for about 5 to 7 minutes, or until the chicken browns. Take a peak inside the oven and you will actually start to see some of the fat dripping off the chicken. The tips of the wings tend to burn faster than the rest, so keep an eye on them. Once the beach-going chicken wings get a nice, dark tan, it’s time to turn them over.

I now take out the AJ2000, place it on the counter and turn the wings over so the skin side is facing up.
After placing the unit back onto the oven rack, let it continue to cook for a few minutes, but keep your eye on them. Peek inside and listen and watch the sizzling action. If it's getting toasted too quickly, open the oven door slightly and let a little of that heat escape. Sometimes I switch to broil, for a minute or two, just to give the skin some direct heat from above, and then switch back to bake mode.

The point here is to control that heat temperature, accordingly, in an attempt to crisp the skin gradually so it will turn out nice and crispy, and not burnt. At the same time, you need to constantly keep the oven in the medium-heat range so that the chicken has a chance to cook thoroughly. You don't want to under cook your chicken.

Depending on the type of oven you have, where you live (i.e., altitude) and the size of the wings, results may vary, so control the heat temperature and cooking time.

You can also make the chicken wings with just salt and pepper. Soak the wings in Sake and/or Shochu (see my previous post, mentioned above) for about 30 minutes (at room temperature) or for up to 4 hours in the refrigerator. After the soaking action, take the wings out of the liquid and add salt and pepper (less is better in our home). Follow the above cooking/grilling instructions. When done, squeeze some fresh, lemon juice onto the wings and voila!

The wife claims that she could eat this version of chicken wings, every day. If you can't find the type of chicken wings featured above, party wings work just as well. Just follow the same instructions and enjoy the hot, juicy wings in the comfort of your home. Although the AJ2000 is my wing man in artificial grilling, sharing many cooking missions together, it will never replace grilling outdoors with charcoal. Then again, it does come in handy when it's raining cats and dogs outside.

We’re not done with the AJ2000, just yet. We’ll be exploring its partner, the AJ2000X, in an upcoming post. Yep, survival cooking with the AJ2000.

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