Monday, November 10, 2008

Ramen - Not Just Chow, but a State of Mind


When you ask the average Japanese person what Ramen (ラーメン) is, you could get a reply that goes something like this; Ramen is a Japanese soup noodle that originated in China. Hmm…then why not just call it Chinese soup noodle? Well, actually, it used to be called Shina Soba, which literally translates into China noodle.


Then, sometime after WWII, some scholars, and people with certain political views, decided it wasn’t politically correct to use the word Shina when referring to China. Apparently, they believed that it had a discriminatory connotation to it.

Thus, terms such as Chugoku or Chuka, which mean center of the world, supposedly became the proper language to use when referring to China. So, people had to say Chugoku Soba or Chuka Soba instead, and the familiar term of Shina Soba became socially unacceptable for some. This term sort of got pushed to the back burner.

This did not sit well with some folks, including restaurant owners. I mean, can you imagine? All of a sudden, you can’t say Hotdog, for whatever reason, and instead you had to refer to it as, for instance, Frankfurters in a bun. It’s kind of like, “Hey, lets go get some Frankfurters in a bun!” Talk about needing time to adjust!

The Name Game
Okay, so, how did Ramen get its current name, then? There are a few hypotheses about the etymology (the study of the origin/ history of words) and often becomes a topic of heated debates. Personally, I tend to go with the theory that claims it came from the Chinese word Lamian (拉麺), which basically refers to a noodle-making method, where you pull the noodles with your hands (or the type of noodle made by this method). Many think this is the most credible explanation, but then again, others have different views and opinions.

As far as when the word Ramen made its debut, again, there are different claims and I don’t think anyone really knows, for sure. But, I recently came across one that I never heard before. According to this claim, in 1950, a few years after the name-changing incident, a renowned Japanese publication, for housewives, published a book featuring Western and Chinese cooking. I assume this is when folks were still trying to get used to the transition saying, “Can I have an order of Shi…I mean, Chuka Soba?” In this publication, the term Ramen was featured as the Japanese reading/ pronunciation of the Chinese word Lamian. Boom!

Thanks to the power of the media, the term Ramen spread like wildfire in a dry, windy forest. Speaking of media, there’s no more powerful medium than the word of mouth. And, I think that women are bar-none when it comes to spreading the word, if you know what I mean. It’s a compliment, ladies! The timing in which, the way it reached the masses (Japanese housewives) and the consistency with the etymology that many support, in my opinion, gives this claim some traction. Also, it's worth noting that, similar to how the GIs who returned home, from Italy, with a taste for Pizza after WWII, I imagine many Japanese soldiers, who spent time in China, had a great appreciation for this Chinese-style soup noodle.

Again, this is just my interpretation and besides, personally, how and when Ramen got its name is not my main concern here, as long as I can enjoy a nice bowl of it, every now and then. Nonetheless, it is interesting, how this soup noodle dish evolved.

The Art of Adaptation
As the number of Chinese folks increased across the port cities of Japan and formed their own, small communities (often referred to as China Town, today) in the late 1800s, restaurants (perhaps more like stands/stalls) that catered to them appeared, as well. After a while, local Japanese started to challenge this foreign cuisine. Some adjustments, such as adding Shoyu (Soy Sauce) and other ingredients/ toppings, that were familiar to the Japanese, were needed to make it more appealing to the locals.

It’s sort of like how Sushi got Americanized, with local creations such as California Rolls. As the popularity of this soup noodle grew, so did its styles and variations. Many different regions, cities and towns came up with their own versions, often equipped with their original soup bases, noodles and toppings, which typically consisted of fresh, local ingredients and specialties.

I mean we're not talking about just New York and Chicago-style pizzas. How about adding San Diego, Dallas, Springfield, Miami, Georgetown and many others to the list of pizza styles. Basically, that’s what the modern Ramen scene, in Japan, boils down to. Some people are so obsessed with Ramen. I mean, I've read about people who travel around Japan just to taste some of the local varieties. There are those who actually look forward to business trips because they're scheduled to visit a certain area known for its Ramen. And, talk about the intensity, of Japanese blogs and websites, devoted entirely to this subject.

So, here’s the deal. Although the original concept came from China, I believe it evolved and got adapted into the local food scene; it sort of mutated into another form of dish, as a spin-off, if you will, and became Ramen, as we refer to it today. So there is some truth to the definition – Ramen is a Japanese soup noodle that originated in China, but at the same time, some will give you a much deeper explanation. I'm not a Ramen fanatic, but for some, they really mean business.

Today in Japan, the term Chuka Soba (中華そば) is still used. One often comes across restaurants in Japan with Chuka Soba banners, instead of Ramen banners. According to many, these two basically mean the same thing, but the difference is in the history and in some cases, the region. Perhaps the term Chuka Soba provides a sense of nostalgia and distinguishes itself from the modern version - Ramen. If you’re ever in Japan, you can stop by one of these Chuka-Soba-bannered shops and make your own comparison.

Whatever the truth is behind this intricate dish, I suppose it can provide us with something to talk about while standing in a long line, waiting to be seated at a popular Ramen shop on a Friday night (I hate it when there's nothing to talk about and I catch myself staring at people slurping their Ramen).

Instant Ramen
If you can’t find a decent Ramen place nearby, try making your own at home. Most supermarkets carry Instant Ramen in their Oriental/ Asian sections, with packages that include the noodles and soup base mix. Although some of the toppings typically used for Ramen may be a little difficult to find, remember, it’s all about evolution and adaptation! We’ll use topping ingredients that are available in most stores across the U.S., so all you need to do is find the Instant Ramen. But beware, it’s not going to be so instant because we’re going to beef it up...I mean literally. Before we go out and get our Instant Ramen, let us take a brief look at what we are dealing with.

Today, Instant Ramen can be categorized into 3 basic types. In Japan, they are typically referred to as Fukuro Men, Cup Men and Nama-type Men.

Fukuro Men
Fukuro Men essentially means Bagged Noodles (Fukuro=Bag, Men=Noodle) and usually refers to the Instant Noodle similar to its original form (soup base mix already incorporated into the noodles), which was invented by Momofuku Ando, the founder of Nissin Foods, back in 1958. The concept of storable, easy-to- prepare noodles has been around in China for hundreds of years, but the debut of Nissin’s first Instant noodle called Chicken (Chikin) Ramen led to a revolutionary landmark in Japanese food culture. Talk about instant success! Sorry, I had to go there.

Nissin currently has 29 plants in 11 countries, so you may be able to find their products in just about any part of the world. This type uses precooked, dried noodles and comes with a packet of soup base mix (usually powered).

Cup Men
Another popular type of Instant Ramen is the Cup Men. This is even easier because you basically just pour hot water into the Styrofoam cup or bowl. You may have to work a little harder when it comes to the bowl type. A lot of these require you to open the accompanying packets of soup base mix and toppings, and THEN pour in the hot water. What can I say…life is tough. Again, it was Nissin who introduced the famous Cup Noodle in 1971.

Today, you’ll find various types of brands and varieties in this form, not just for Ramen but also for other types of noodles, including Spaghetti! Many include your basic vegetables and meats so you, essentially, don’t need to prepare any toppings.

Nama-type Men
Wow! The interpretation of this can be a little tricky. Now, Nama means raw/ pure/ untreated in Japanese, but in this case, perhaps this type of Men can be interpreted as Fresh, which generally means unheated or non-dried noodles, which are often refrigerated or frozen for preservation. However, the broader definition of Nama-type Men includes noodles that have been steamed, boiled, fried or partially dried. As you can see in the photo, Nama-type Men looks and feels fresh/ raw, and doesn’t look like the fully dried ones in the Fukuro Men. Also, the soup base mix is usually in liquid form and not powdered.

So Many Choices!
Now that you've explored the different types of Instant Ramen, you need to select which flavor or style you want. Since it breaks down into so many different kinds and varieties, let's keep it as simple as possible. We’re going to add our own toppings, so all we need are the noodles and the soup base mix. Personally, I like the Nama-type Men, but if you can’t find it, make a selection from the Fukuro Men varieties.

To minimize the confusion, here are some Ramen basics, in a nutshell. First, chicken or pork bones (or their extracts), often combined with other ingredients, are usually used for the stock. In addition, the soup is typically seasoned with Shoyu (Soy Sauce), Shio (Salt) or Miso (Fermented Soybean Paste). So, if I want a pork-bone-based soup with Shoyu flavor, I look for Tonkotsu (pork bones) Shoyu Ramen. Simple enough, right? Not so fast! In this competitive field, brands need to distinguish themselves among their counterparts and come up with all sorts of unique representations on their packages – Savory Herb Chicken Flavor, for instance. Then you have Oriental Flavor. Now, what the heck does that mean? Does it mean they also have European or Latin Flavors, too?

In any case, since we're going to be beefing up our Instant Ramen, keep it plain and simple. Just get a regular Shoyu Ramen or even Chicken-Flavored is fine. While you’re at it, make sure you get some garlic if you don’t already have some at home.

Ready...here we go...

Not-So-Instant Ramen
First, we're going to beef up the Instant Ramen with what? Beef! Get some short ribs (bones and fat). We’re going to stew this baby for a long time. I usually start cooking the ribs the day before to get them nice and tender. How am I going to stew the beef? Yes, you’ve guessed it – with help from my friends, the Three Musketeers. For those of you who don’t have a clue about what I’m talking about, please refer to the My Three Musketeers post.

Place the short ribs into a saucepan and add about 1/2 a cup each of Shoyu and Mirin (Japanese Cooking Sake/ Wine). Pour in about a couple of cups of Sake, and add slices of garlic and ginger. You may add carrots and/or onions for added flavor. Add some water so the surface of the beef is covered (those of you who know me, KNOW that I prefer to add beer instead). Bring it to a boil, then lower the heat and do a slow-cook job on it. Skim the broth as often as required.

When I prepare this the day before, I cook on low heat for a few hours (anywhere from 2 to 5, with the lid on), let it cool down, place in the fridge overnight and cook for another few hours, on low heat, the next day. That's right, these babies will be sliding off the bones...slip, sliding awaaay...If you want to eat it the same day, we’ll half the action. Heat on high temperature for about 5 hours. I warned you, this is Not So Instant!

Boiled eggs are often used as a topping for Ramen. Our next step is to beef up these babies, too. Boil some eggs as you normally do. While they're cooling, we’re going to make a sauce for them. Again, we need our friends, the Three Musketeers. Pour exactly the same proportion of Shoyu, Sake, Mirin and water into a pot. Peel and place the eggs into the sauce.

Let it come to a boil, add some Bonito flakes (Katsuobushi) if you have some and continue boiling for another 10 minutes. Let it cool down and settle. It tastes much better refrigerated overnight. I usually make these guys the day before, as well. These eggs are called Ni Tamago (stewed eggs) or Aji-Tsuke Tamago (Flavor-added eggs) and there are other ways to make them but this is probably the easiest.

Check out the difference between the regular boiled eggs and the beefed-up version, in the photo. You probably can't tell from the photo, but the texture is different and it adds another dimension to this dish. The taste of Shoyu is a little strong if you eat them as is, but boy, do they compliment the noodles. It's definitely worth spending the time to do this.

After you prepare other toppings such as boiled spinach, corn, Chinese snow peas, etc., get ready to boil the noodles. By the way, green onions are a must (in my house) so chop some up and have them ready to join in on the fun. Now, some people use the same pot to boil the noodles and prepare the soup. I usually use a separate pot to boil the water for the soup. Why? Well, because we're going to prepare the bowl, so to speak.

Here comes the final step in the Beef-up Instant Ramen project. You got it, grating the garlic. Time to get nice and stinky. A garlic press works well for those who to own one. After grating some garlic gloves, place into the bowl, add a small amount of your favorite Shoyu (Got Soy Sauce? post), and pour in the soup base mix.

With the toppings, soup base mix powered by garlic and Shoyu waiting at the starting line, we’re all set to boil the noodles. Pour the noodles into boiling water and cook according to the instructions. I usually cook them a little less than instructed to keep them al dente. If the instructions say 2 1/2 minutes, I'll do 2 minutes.

When boiling the noodles, use a chopstick to spread them apart. While the noodles are cooking, add some hot water (enough to dissolve the guys at the starting line) into the bowl and give all the players a good stir. Once the noodles are done, drain the water and pour into the bowl. Add more hot water to the bowl and adjust the amount so it barely covers the noodles. I even add a couple of spoonfuls of the beef stew broth. Give it a final stir and add the toppings...
congratulations, you’ve just made yourself a Not-So-Instant version of Instant Ramen!


It’s all about evolution and adaptation. If the toppings go well with the noodles and the soup, heck, use what you have and make your own version. In the meantime, I’ll just call my version the Cowboy Ramen. Well, the one in the photo doesn’t have much beef so we’ll call it a mini-Cowboy Ramen. Anyway, you get the point.

"Whoa, Nellie!"..."Hold your Horses!"...The Texan Cowboy Ramen just made its appearance!



What, NO CAN EAT BEEF? Not to worry, here's a veggie lovers delight. Including the Portobello mushrooms, I have 7 items as toppings so I’ll call it the Lucky 7 Ramen Special.


The Portobello makes an excellent substitute for meat. I even used the AJ2000X to cook the Portobello. For those of you who don’t know what the AJ2000X is, please check out my previous posting called Grill for the Thrill. When coming up with your own version, here’s a little hint. When I cook the Portobello for Ramen, I use butter instead of olive oil. Butter goes well with Ramen. If you come up with an awesome creation, share it with the rest of us.

Oh, by the way, according to Nissin Foods www.nissinfoods.com, it’s pronounced rah-men, not ray-men. Then again, although the Japanese use the letter “r” when writing words in English, it’s different than how it’s used in English and the “r" isn't rolled. So I’d say it’s more like lah-men.

This is NOT the end of the road for this topic. We'll be traveling this path a lot more in the future. You know...my gut feeling tells me that the evolution of Ramen will continue…

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