As a kid growing up in Japan, one of my passions was fishing. I was so into it, I read all three, major fishing magazines from cover to cover every month. A nation surrounded by rich seas, Japan has one of the best fishing grounds the world can ever offer. The offerings, of the types and varieties of fish, are so expansive that I couldn’t tell you what the correct English translations are for many of them. Greenling, Goby, Silver Whiting and White Croaker may be some of the less known fish. Alfonsino, Rock Fish, Sea Bass, Mackerel, Barracuda, Jack and so on may be more familiar.
And the gear, equipment and techniques that have been developed for every method and purpose of fishing are astonishing, to say the least. If you’re a fishing buff and plan to visit Japan, definitely check out a tackle shop. Along with the different methods of fishing for various types of fish, you’ll be amazed with the multitude of gadgets available…from hooks to poles and so on. The attention to detail and craftsmanship, along with the technology involved are all pretty amazing, indeed, if you ask me.
As a young fishing enthusiast, learning about the fish, preparing the rigs and planning for the expedition was as much fun as the actual experience of fishing itself. But there was another exciting aspect to it all. Eating the fish! IF, I was lucky enough to catch any, that is.
My only problem was, I often had to clean and prepare the fish myself. Some of the fish I caught weren’t the ordinary kind that you find at your local supermarket, and my mother was clueless in terms of what to do with them, or perhaps just pretended to be so to make me do the stinky work. In any case, I attempted to learn how to prepare and cook certain fish from the real experts, the fishermen...unless the fish could talk.
Whenever I hopped on boats to go on a fishing expedition, I made sure to position myself near the captains, who were often retired fishermen and old-timers. I often idolized them for their knowledge and the respect they have for the ocean. Typically, they talked rough, stared down at me with their tanned faces and treated me like an amateur punk from the city.
When the sea got really rough and most of the people on deck were busy losing their breakfast, I’d be calmly eating my Onigiri (rice ball) and continue to fish. This was typically a moment when I’d get a little recognition from the captains and some advice on my fishing tactics. By the time we were heading back to shore, I’d be asking about the best way to prepare and eat the fish that I’d caught.
A few of them were kind enough to demonstrate some of the basics. Depending on what type of fish it was, they’d demonstrate how to prepare the fish for Sashimi, Stews, Grilling, Pan-Frying or for Tempura. Despite the different methods, I discovered a common theme. They were all simple and practical. Since they were prepared and cooked on board or on the beach, there were no fancy cookware items, measuring cups or utensils except for a knife and Hashi (chopsticks). In terms of seasoning, mainly salt and/ or Shoyu (soy sauce) were used and on some occasions, Sake and Miso (soybean paste) were added to some of the dishes.
As a kid, I was introduced to the bare minimum or the survival mode of cooking. It’s plain, simple, fast, effective and very, very unsophisticated and even rough at times, but the truth of the matter is, I’ve never tasted anything like it since. They were all so awesome I would give anything to re-live those moments. I’m sure the hunger pangs and the ambiance of being out in nature had a lot to do with the eating experience/ taste but above all, these guys really knew their fish!
Chan-Chan Yaki
So when it comes to cooking fish, my first instinct is to learn from the front line…fishermen. In this posting, I’d like to share a fish dish that was started in a fishing village in Hokkaido (a prefecture/ region on the northern tip of Japan), supposedly by fishermen. With the benefits of Salmon and veggies all in one, it’s not only simple but it’s healthy and quite awesome. It’s called Chan-Chan Yaki.
The word Yaki, in this context, basically refers to cooking food over direct heat (usually), typically by grilling or using a griddle. You may have been to Benihana or other similar establishments, often called Japanese Steakhouses, where the chef cooks and performs right in front of you. Generally, this is called Teppan Yaki as iron plates (Teppan) are utilized.
As is often the case, nobody knows for sure how the term Chan-Chan came about but one theory suggests that it got its name because of the sound it generates. Chan-Chan Yaki is often cooked outdoors on a Teppan and as you use the utensils to stir and flip the ingredients, the metallic sound of Kachang, Kachang can be heard.
Chan-Chan Yaki (the "a" in Chan sounds like lawn) is not something you’d find on the menu of your average Japanese restaurant, nor is it considered a typical Japanese dish. Chan-Chan Yaki is more often classified as Kyoudo Ryouri. Like many other cuisines, regional variations and styles exist throughout the country of Japan and local specialties are often referred to as Kyoudo Ryori. Kyoudo (郷土) means region, locality, hometown, etc., and Ryouri (料理) basically translates into cooking or a food dish. In a broader sense, Japanese food is called Nihon Ryouri (日本料理), and Nihon obviously means Japan.
Japan, which is almost equivalent in size to the state of California, in the U.S., consists of 47 prefectures but can be divided into 8 main regions or districts. From a southern resort area to a city that hosts the Winter Olympics, the natural environment and climate surrounding the regions can be vastly different and unique. Obviously the environmental and circumstantial elements often account for differences in customs and lifestyles, and traditionally, they also impact the food sources that are available and therefore, the food culture itself.
In short, Kyoudo Ryori is all about experiencing seasonal food using fresh local ingredients, prepared in a manner that reflects the regional/ local way of life and culture. The term Local Favorite may be applicable, here. One such example of Kyoudo Ryouri is Katsuo-No-Tataki, from the Shikoku Region of Japan. It’s basically a seared Katsuo (Bonito) but the locality and seasonal elements associated with the type and characteristics of the fish are deeply connected to the dish, as well as, the way it’s prepared and served (i.e., seasoning, etc.). For more on Katsuo (Bonito), see Surf and Turf Gone Asian posting.
In 2007, the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MAFF) selected three dishes as Hokkaido’s Kyoudo Ryouri and one of them was none other than the Chan-Chan Yaki, securing a solid status as one of Hokkaido’s eminent local food dishes. A simple dish created by fishermen finally gets the spotlight and the recognition it deserves.
Now, let’s begin our journey to encountering one of Hokkaido, Japan's Kyoudo Ryouri - the Chan-Chan Yaki. You don’t need a passport this time around, for this trip, but you may want to have the following readily available:
The Fish
Although it’s been said that a fish called Hokke (Arabesque Greenling) was originally used in this dish, Salmon is the featured ingredient for Chan-Chan Yaki today. Get yourself a nice fresh, boneless cut of Salmon (fillet/ side of salmon).
Use a paper towel to wipe off any moisture on the fish and sprinkle some salt and pepper on both sides of the fillet. We’ll be adding a sauce/ seasoning to it during the cooking stage so go easy on the salt, folks.
The Veggies
Typically, cabbage, green pepper, onion, carrots and bean sprouts are used in this dish. Broccoli and other veggies can be included in the lineup, as well. As long as it matches the taste of fish, perhaps the more the merrier. I just have to have my garlic in the lineup. I'll toss him into the sauce/ seasoning.
You basically want to cut up the veggies into bite-sized pieces. You may want to slice the carrots somewhat thinly so they cook easier. Other than that, just remember that this is a fisherman’s dish. You can chop them up any way you want and not sweat the small, little details!
You don’t have to get carried away and chop up the bean sprouts. I just give them quick rinse and strain out the moisture.
The Sauce/ Seasoning (condiments)
Miso (soybean paste) plays an important role in this dish. This is one, good example of using Miso for something other than soup. It not only goes well with fish and veggie dishes, it provides excellent nutritional value that is essential to your health. It’s high in vitamins, minerals and proteins, and low in calories and fat. It can help strengthen the immune function, protect blood vessels and bones, and with its anti-cancer properties it’s even said to reduce the risk of breast and other cancers.
But, purchasing Miso can be a little confusing for first-timers, especially if you were to shop at a well-stocked Japanese grocery store, where different types and varieties are available. The most common type is referred to as Kome Miso and is made from white rice and soybeans.
Other varieties include Miso made from brown rice, or barley and soybeans, or just soybeans alone. In the case of Kome Miso, the amount of salt and the ratio of soybean to rice used, determines the saltiness and the sweetness. The processing of the soybeans (steaming vs. boiling) and even the duration of the fermentation has an effect on the color of the paste.
A lighter colored Miso known as Shiro (white) Miso is what we want to use in this case. It’s sweeter than the darker colored Aka (red) Miso. Shiro Miso uses boiled soybeans whereas soybeans used in Aka Miso are steamed, which also contributes to giving it that darker color. Since Aka Miso is saltier and stronger in flavor, I prefer to use Shiro Miso for this dish. It doesn't overwhelm the taste of the Salmon.
Here comes the tasty part. Miso alone could work just fine but I personally add some, what else...Sake and grated garlic. Take a couple of spoonfuls of Miso paste and stir in a shot (or two) of Sake, along with some freshly grated garlic. Some people add other condiments such as sugar, Mirin (sweet cooking rice wine), butter and so on to the mix but that’s your call.
Mix up the ingredients. You could use a saucepan and apply heat to combine the ingredients but be sure to treat it over low heat. You wouldn’t want to over cook, or worse case scenario, burn the Miso! The idea is to simply get the adequate consistency and not to cook the sauce. But then again, this is a fisherman’s dish. It doesn’t have to be fancy and sophisticated. You can just stir it up without using any heat…keep it simple!
Bring on the Heat
Now that we have the ingredients and seasoning all set, we’re ready. Some people do the cooking process slightly differently but my idea is to keep it as simple and easy, as I believe it was intended to be. I’m sure the experience would be much more sensational if you were to cook Chan-Chan Yaki outdoors by the ocean, with a Teppan plate, but we’ll settle for the home-style version.
I use my portable gas range and do the cooking on the dining table. I just bring everything to the table (including my drink) and conduct operation Lazy Man’s Cooking. These portable ranges come in really handy. If you don’t have one of these, you may want to get one. You can use them for other Japanese dishes such as Sukiyaki, Shabu-Shabu, Nabe and so on. Check out my on-line store if you can't find one near you.
Preheat the skillet on medium. Pour some cooking oil into a large skillet (personally I also add some butter, too) and place the Salmon, skin-side down, right in the middle. Place the veggies around the Salmon and turn the heat up to high. Then immediately pour in some Sake. Although I pour in a lot more, a quarter to half a cup or so will do, depending on the size and amount of your ingredients.
Bring it to a boil, then turn down the heat and simmer. Put a lid (aluminum foil works just as well) on the skillet, let it simmer and steam for about 15 minutes. Sit back and relax. Have a drink or two. After catching a slight buzz, place the sauce/ seasoning over the Salmon.
Put the lid back on and let it simmer for at least another 5~10 minutes. Once the Salmon turns a whitish pink, it should be done. If you’re not certain, just break off a piece of fish and see if it’s cooked through.
Personally, I don’t want to over cook the fish and veggies but you can be the judge of that. And, as long as you have enough oil and Sake in the skillet, you can continue to have the heat on low to keep the dish warm.
Also, once done, some people mix up the ingredients right there in the skillet. I just leave it as is and let people pick their own portion from the skillet. Remember, Lazy Man’s Cooking is still in effect. What’s good about the fillet or the side of Salmon is that it’s boneless. It’s especially easy for kids and the elderly to eat, and you don’t have to pick out the bones like many other Japanese fish dishes, so it’s pretty much hassle-free.
If the Miso is too strong for you, incorporate it into the liquid (in the skillet) and then pour it all over your portion. The wife likes it better this way. She says that it actually soothes her soul...imagine that.
Well folks, that’s it. It’s easy, it’s nutritious and the flavors will leave you wanting more. Oh, don’t forget to eat the skin, too. There's all that good fat (Fish oil! Omega-3!) between the skin and the flesh, so you don’t want to waste that. Besides, in Japanese cooking, Salmon can be eaten from head to tail. Nothing goes to waste and shouldn’t. Also, if you end up not using all the veggies cook them exactly the same way, without the fish, the next day or two.
Hey, don’t be shy to add other ingredients to the dish. I add Shiitake mushrooms to my mix when I have them. Now, I haven’t gone there yet, but other mushrooms may work just as well. Try using what’s available in your area and create your own version of Kyoudo Ryouri, and share your experience with us.
So, fisherman or not, if you like fish (Salmon in particular), this is definitely worth trying. Salmon says…eat me!
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