Sunday, March 22, 2009

Sticky Business


In the previous posting, I briefly covered the concept of the rice ball – a chunk of rice shaped into an easy-to-eat, hand-held, portable foodstuff, often filled with various ingredients and covered with seaweed. Whether you call it Omusubi or Onigiri (which they are commonly referred to as, today) this practice of eating a ball of rice has been rooted deeply into the lives of the Japanese, perhaps since the arrival of rice as a food source.

In this respect, as simple and unsophisticated as some may deem it to be, I consider Omusubi (おむすび) or Onigiri (おにぎり) as one of the forefathers of Japanese food.


What's in a Name?
Referred to by either name, some claim that people in Eastern Japan call it Omusubi and those in the Western region refer to it as Onigiri…and some claim exactly the opposite. Sold 24/7 at most convenience stores across Japan, these venues also vary in its naming of the rice ball…Omusubi at some and Onigiri at others. Some call the large-sized rice ball Omusubi and the smaller-sized ones Onigiri. Despite the difference in names, they have one thing in common, the letter “お” or the sound “O".

In a nutshell, the letter “お”, in this case, is sort of like a prefix to add politeness to certain Japanese words and is traditionally a manner of speech practiced by women. For instance, it's more polite to say Osake rather than Sake. I often even hear some women servers inquiring if we want more Obee-ru (beer!). Commonly, guys get away without using the “O,” especially in casual situations. In fact, too much usage of it by a guy can send a different kind of message, if you know what I mean.

It’s been said that the Imperial Palace court ladies started using the phrase Omusubi instead of Musubi, thousands of years ago. Why do women always have to make things so complicated? Left-brain, Right-brain? Venus vs. Mars? Well, even guys have differences in opinions, so do we, then, just add to the complication?!

The word Onigiri is said to have derived from Nigiri-Meshi. Nigiri is a noun form of the verb Nigiru, which basically means to grasp. Like you grasp or Nigiru your car’s steering wheel. Meshi is more of a guy term for rice. I'm just guessing here, but perhaps some cultured lady got rid of the Meshi part of Nigiri-Meshi, and added the "O" in front of Nigiri. Go figure, perhaps
it's true.


Deeper Origins?

Musubi is generally associated with the verb Musubu, which in a broad sense, means to tie or bind. The common notion is that it’s called Musubi because there's a bonding of the rice with one’s hands, to form the rice ball. Furthermore, Omusubi can also be interpreted as a food that connects the Meal Maker and the Eaters…mom and the family, for instance. And in terms of survival, I believe it’s this family tie or the bond with others, that is important…more so than the meal itself. I'm not just talking about the bond with rice and what it represents to some, but also about the bond between people, nature and perhaps other elements, as well.

There are other theories that suggest how Omusubi or Musubi got its name. Some claim the word Musubi is associated with the Shinto deities. In early accounts of Japanese mythology, written in the eighth century called Kojiki (known as the Records of Ancient Matters, in English), three Kami (divine spirits) are said to have appeared at the beginning of the creation of heaven and earth, and were the basis for the birth and growth of all things.

Two of the deities were called Takami Musubi no Kami (Exalted Musubi Deity) and Kami Musubi no Kami (Sacred Musubi Deity). From what I understand, these two Kami signified the spirit of creation, growth and harmony. For instance, in the latter part of the mythology, Kami Musubi no Kami is said to be associated with the moving force behind the growth of grain from seeds.

So, it’s been said that Japanese folk in the old days offered rice to the deities as a way of asking for their blessing, and since the mountains themselves were deified, it’s also been said that this is how Omusubi got its triangular shape.

Either way, I believe that we should all be more thankful for the foods we are provided and its sources, and to the wonderful eccentricities of mother nature.

So in this posting, I’d like to focus on the topic of Omusubi (…or Musubi…or Onigiri…or Nigiri- Meshi…whatever you prefer to call it) and explore these simple, yet fundamental principles of Japanese food.


Rice Ball Action

Traditionally, in a common Japanese household, people often learn how to make Omusubi or Onigiri just by watching others (i.e., mom, family members, friends, etc.,). As with other homemade meals, you watch and learn the basics, then try it on your own. After making some mistakes, you start to get the hang of it and often add your own touch and style to it. For this reason, I've witnessed and heard of several different rice-ball-making styles and techniques.

Speaking of the basics, it begins with the rice. First and foremost, it's all about the rice. Please check my previous posting Got Rice? as a guide only (there are many different opinions on how to cook rice – and I’m no authority; it’s just my way). Using freshly cooked rice seems to be the consensus, here. Since you're going to be using your bare hands to make the rice ball, you may want to put some of the rice into another container and let it cool off a bit, so as not to scorch your hands.

Now, having a bowl of water readily available at the workstation may be a good idea. Slightly wetting your hands helps the rice from sticking to your fingers and palms, and also makes it a little easier when handling the hot rice. You may want to be careful to not to have your hands soaking wet, though, because you want to minimize the moisture in the resulting rice ball.

Salt would be good, at this point. Salt not only flavors the rice, but it also helps to keep the rice from sticking to your hands. Before making contact with the rice, sprinkle some salt on your hands, fingertips to palm. The idea is to salt the rice as evenly as possible, as you shape it. Some people simply use salted water. In this case, mix a small spoonful of salt into a cup or bowl of water.

Once you have the rice, water and salt ready, have your favorite filling(s) on the sideline and you're ready to roll. In this case, we're going to tackle the triangular-shaped rice ball (seems to be the most standard shape and easiest to eat, especially for kids). Oh, you may also want to have a wet paper towel or something handy. Remember, this is some Sticky Business. Okay, now we're ready! As mentioned earlier, some people learn how to make rice balls simply by watching. So, let’s do exactly that.

I got some help from my friend, Yumi. She's not a professional cook, but is the mother of two daughters, who is constantly preparing rice balls and other homemade food to keep the growing girls fed. Just be aware that she’s a lefty. In my case, the right hand goes on top.
Let’s take look.


Perhaps there’s no right or wrong way of doing this as long as you achieve your objectives, and one of these objectives is to not mash up the rice. Go easy on the rice. Texture is everything. You want the outside to be somewhat firm, for containment and to sustain the form, but have the inside be less condensed. It’s sort of like a crowded train ride in Japan. You can be packed in, but you need some space to breathe!

Watching pros do it, I notice that they handle the rice while still piping hot, working quickly to form its shape, and then rotating 4 or 5 times for that final touch. The last thing you want to do is to overdo the pressing and squeezing action, in an effort to perfect the shape. You'll just end up with mushy rice.

The idea is to have the rice sort of break apart in your mouth after you bite into it. Same concept with Sushi, it seems. When you pick up a piece of Sushi, the rice doesn’t fall apart, yet when you take a bite, it gently crumbles into your mouth.

The wife is cuckoo for Nori (toasted/ roasted seaweed)...if you wrap it with Nori, they will come...so she claims. Although you can eat the rice ball, as is, Nori always adds that extra flavor and happiness.



Now, for whatever reason, if you don’t want to touch the rice with your bare hands to make the rice ball...for better or for worse...life has become easier. You can always use plastic wraps or rice-ball molds to help you along.


Or, you can always drop the idea of making your own, entirely, and head to a local Japanese store to buy one of these perfectly-shaped triangular rice balls.


Typically, the rice balls sold at retail and convenience stores are made by machines and as convenient as they are, in my opinion, they lack the most important ingredient of all...the human touch. So, don’t worry too much about presentation, it’s the thought of using your own hands that counts. Rice balls made with your own hands are going to have more character than those made by machines. So, don't be intimidated by shapes and appearances. You should see how I make mine! It's basically a chunk of rice with stuff hanging out all over the place, wrapped in Nori.


Mine are kind of like a hybrid between a Sandwich and a rice ball. I basically wrap the ingredients in rice and bypass the ritual of rotating. My emphasis is on simplicity and taste, and not on appearance, in this case. Also, for the most part, my intention is to eat them on the spot and not to make a portable meal to be eaten hours later.

If you want to make rice balls to be eaten hours later, without refrigerating them, you may want to consider other ingredients such as the Japanese pickled plum, Umeboshi. The citric acid in it acts as an antibacterial agent and when paired with rice, it is said to inhibit the growth of bacteria. The tart/sour and salty taste of Umeboshi not only goes well with rice, but in addition, this food purifier is said to be a good remedy for fatigue, and also helps to digest the rice. This classic rice-ball combination is a well-suited, portable field ration. Did you catch it in the video?


For casual in-home snacking, the filling(s), or the Gu (具) as they say in Japanese, can be just about anything as long as it goes well with rice. In fact, have you heard of Tsuna-Mayo? Yes, it’s one of those Japanese-English terms, that translates to Tuna Mayonnaise...you know, like the stuff we use in sandwiches? Well, according to a recent Japanese online survey, Tsuna-Mayo was ranked number one in popularity among a variety of rice balls sold at convenience stores.

I’m guessing that most of the people who participated in this survey are of the younger generation, so it wouldn’t be fair to say that Tsuna-Mayo is the number one rice ball filling in Japan, but as a relative newcomer it's sure making a mark. Instead of the Salmon flakes used in the video, just mix a spoonful of tuna with mayonnaise, stuff it inside the rice ball and give it a try.

Personally, I use a Japanese brand of mayonnaise called Kewpie, add some Shichimi Togarashi (red pepper mix), a small splash of Shoyu, and mix in the tuna.


And, hey, why not a fish combo! Tsuna-Mayo with Salmon Flakes and even grilled, crispy Salmon Skin!


Both Kewpie mayonnaise and Shichimi Togarashi are available at most Japanese or Asian stores...or you can always check out my online shop if they're not readily available in your area.



If Tsuna-Mayo is not your thing, there’s always the Spam Musubi (See previous posting for details)...and do they have quite the lineup now!


Here’s a trick I use when making Spam Musubi. Put a sheet of plastic wrap over the top of the Spam can and place some rice on it.


Cover the rice with the plastic wrap and use your fingers to flatten and shape the rice (follow the shape of the can). Just remember not to mash up the rice. Make two of these and put whatever filling in the middle, like a sandwich, then wrap it with Nori.


Or, you can top it with Spam, as featured in my previous posting.


Got some leftover steak or Teriyaki chicken? Same deal. You may want to add/ dip it into some Shoyu, Teriyaki Sauce, etc., for flavor, depending on how you seasoned your cooked meat.



Whether you shape it or fake it, try making and creating your own rice ball. Feel the rice in your hands and imagine the long journey it took to finally end up there. Then, share it with your loved ones and enjoy the bonding effects of rice. It’s not about the recipe but about love, passion and gratitude. Most of all, though…have fun! Get the kids involved or have dad make a Super-Sized version and enjoy the experience of making and eating a rice ball. It's all about connecting food and people.

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