Got Soy Sauce?

Which is worse? (a) Cookies without milk or (b) Tuna Sashimi without soy sauce. For those of you who answered (b), welcome aboard to Japanese Food at Home, home of survival-mode Japanese cooking and more. And, for those of you who have never had Tuna Sashimi or soy sauce, or if you chose (a), welcome aboard anyway. This blog is especially for those of you who have never experienced Japanese food. The objective of this blog is to check out some basic, homemade Japanese comfort food and the topics associated with this food culture, and to share them with you. No fancy, celebrity chef recipes and no state-of-the-art kitchen and equipment required. Just passion, love for the food and a bottle of soy sauce would definitely help.

Why soy sauce? For starters, because soy sauce plays such a vital role in Japanese food culture, it would be hazardous not to have it if you wish to prepare, cook and enjoy Japanese food to its fullest, even if you’re not a raw fish eater and love Teriyaki Chicken instead. Well, as you may have guessed by now, one of Teriyaki's main ingredients is soy sauce. See all those sauce and soup base bottles in the photo? All of them contain soy sauce as a key ingredient.

As a stand-alone, it’s an excellent condiment and it has the power to eliminate fish and meat odors, although I wouldn't use it as a deodorant. It also helps to keep food from spoiling; it was used to make preserved seafood side dishes, such as Tsukudani, since the days when refrigeration wasn't around. This photo shows fish Tsukudani and cubes of tuna Tsukudani. This preservation aspect is very important in survival cooking. You always want to try to preserve whatever it is, as much as possible. Including, marriage? Well, I'm no expert, but I try.

Anyway, in a nutshell, soy sauce is an all-around player and I decided to write about this subject today, October 1st.

Why today? Well, it’s Shoyu Day! And, what’s Shoyu? Shoyu is soy sauce in Japanese. So, who designated this day as Shoyu Day? The Shoyu Industry in Japan did, probably as part of a public relations promotion effort. Is it a national holiday? I doubt it very much. In fact, I don’t think many Japanese even know about it. Why is it that October 1st is designated as Shoyu Day? Well, traditionally, October in Japan basically meant the start of the storing or processing of harvested produce, preparing for the winter months. So for Shoyu makers, I think this month has a very significant meaning. To commemorate this special day, I’ll kick off this blog by writing a little about this awesome sauce.

I must admit, though, we’ve come a long way. Many people had no idea what soy sauce was a few decades ago and merely identified it as “that silver, packet thing that comes with your Chinese take-out.” Actually, the notion of soy sauce wasn’t too bad, though. I mean, it was almost impossible to describe sushi and sashimi back then. “Raw fish? You mean to say you eat fish bait?” Oh, yes, the good ‘ole days.

For those of you who have never bought or have not bought soy sauce in a very long time, you’ll be surprised with the types and varieties available today, especially at Japanese or Asian grocery stores. A buddy of mine will be demanding an explanation “so, which one do you use to dip that fish bait in?” For beginners like my buddy, let us start with the raw basics.

Firstly, not all soy sauces are the same. The main types of soy sauce are those from China and Japan, but Korea, Malaysia, Indonesia, Vietnam and other Asian countries have their own, uniquely flavored soy sauces as well. Although similar in appearance, not all Asian soy sauces taste the same and they differ in consistency, aroma and saltiness. Throughout history, soy sauce has been refined to compliment Japanese cuisine, in general, as well as Japan's regional food culture/characteristics.

Also, on a different note, there are Naturally Brewed Soy Sauces and the not-so-natural ones. Some contain chemically hydrolyzed proteins or carbohydrates, and add caramel for coloring. Check the front or back label on the bottle and look for the mentioning of Naturally Brewed. You may have to pay slightly more for these than the chemically manufactured ones, but I think it’s definitely a worthwhile choice.

Secondly, there are 5 basic types of Japanese Shoyu categorized by the Japan Agricultural Standard, which is operated by the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. For the most part, the specific ratio of soybean and wheat, the content of salt, and the fermentation process give each Shoyu type a different character.

Some are harder to find than others, especially outside of Japan, but for your reference, here they are:

1) Koikuchi (dark) Shoyu
　 濃口醤油（こいくちしょうゆ）
2) Usukuchi (light) Shoyu
　 淡口醤油（うすくちしょうゆ）
3) Tamari Shoyu
　 溜醤油（たまりしょうゆ）
4) Saishikomi Shoyu
　 再仕込み醤油（さいしこみしょうゆ）
5) Shiro (white) Shoyu
　 白醤油（しろしょうゆ）

Koikuchi Shoyu
If you say, “pass me the Shoyu” at an average family dinner table in Japan, you’ll most likely get the Koikuchi Shoyu. This type accounts for a little over 80% of all Shoyu consumed in Japan, and is typically referred to as the regular Shoyu. This is the type you're most likely to find at most Japanese restaurants and the small dispensable type bottles with red caps are a common scene. Some restaurants also have a dispensable Shoyu bottle with a green cap. The green cap bottle is usually low-salt Shoyu, which will be mentioned later. Made from equal amounts of soybean and wheat, its (Koikuchi) characteristics include a strong aroma, a myriad of flavors and a deep, red-brown color. As an all-purpose soy sauce, you can use this type as a tabletop condiment or for preparing and cooking foods. Usually, this is the type you use when Shoyu is mentioned in a recipe, unless otherwise specified. Also, since this type is referred to as the regular Shoyu, typically there is no mentioning of Koikuchi on the label.

Usukuchi Shoyu
Making up about 14% of total Shoyu production in Japan, Usukuchi Shoyu is lighter in color than the Koikuchi Shoyu and is milder in flavor and aroma, which helps retain food’s natural color and flavor. For this reason, it is commonly used for cooking and is used extensively in Kansai (Western region of Japan) style cooking. The ratio of soybean to wheat is the same as Koikuchi Shoyu, but its fermentation is controlled to prevent color development. If you intend to cook a vast variety of Japanese dishes, you may want to keep a bottle on hand.

Tamari Shoyu
Unlike the other 2 types, Tamari is made with a larger proportion of soybean over wheat. In fact, some are made only with soybean and no wheat at all. It is typically darker in color and richer in flavor than the regular type. This can be used as is or by mixing it with regular Shoyu for dipping Sashimi. Teriyaki sauce and certain dishes use this type to give a glossy, shiny finish to food. It is also used commercially for processing foods and Japanese snacks such as Senbei (rice cracker). Although this type represents less than 2% of total Shoyu production in Japan, its presence on store shelves is increasing.

Saishikomi Shoyu
Saishikomi basically means twice-brewed. Like Koikuchi and Usukuchi, equal amounts of soybean and wheat are used, but raw (more on this next time) Shoyu instead of the brine (salt water) is mixed in before the second fermentation. It requires double the ingredients and time compared to brewing regular Shoyu. Because of this, it usually costs more and is normally used as a condiment rather than for cooking. It is darker and more flavorful than regular Shoyu, and also has a stronger aroma than Tamari Shoyu.

Also called Sashimi Shoyu and typically used for Sushi, Sashimi and cold Tofu (soybean curd), Saishikomi represents less than 1% of total Shoyu production in Japan. This type is most likely to be imported from Japan and sold typically only at Japanese grocery stores. For the ones I've seen, the type of Shoyu is indicated mainly in Japanese, so unless you can read Chinese characters or Japanese, look for an English label (Nutrition Facts label) attached to the product. Although most Shoyu makers call it Saishikomi, the English label reads Saijikomi.

Shiro (white) Shoyu
The name derives from its light color (Shiro meaning white in Japanese), which is much lighter in color than Usukuchi and almost resembles the color of beer. Unlike Tamari, this type is made with mostly wheat and very little soybean. Like Usukuchi, it’s mainly used for cooking, typically at up-scale restaurants, to retain the food’s natural color and taste, though, some prefer it as a condiment – for dipping Sushi and Sashimi. In fact, I’ve read somewhere about how it was used as a condiment at a banquet for Commodore Perry during his expedition to Japan in the 1850s. So, I guess that makes him the first American to taste Shiro Shoyu? Today, this type accounts for only about 0.6% of total Shoyu production in Japan. Like Saishikomi, this type is most likely imported as well and sold mainly at Japanese grocery stores. Look for the English label.

Thirdly, there are many different varieties of Shoyu for special needs and preferences. Here are some:

Low-Salt Shoyu
For people who are concerned about sodium intake, less-salt Shoyu, in which the salt content is reduced, is available. The salt is reduced to about half the amount compared to regular Shoyu, only after a normal brewing process takes place because the appropriate amount of salt is needed for proper fermentation. Lower salt content does not necessarily translate into lower in price – expect to pay slightly more for low-salt Shoyu. Also, there is a variation, or combination if you will, of low-salt Shoyu using whole soybeans.

Whole Soybeans vs. Defatted Soybeans
This is when it gets a little confusing, even for many Japanese. In modern times, most brewers have been using defatted soybeans, instead of using whole soybeans. When using whole soybeans, the oil residue from the soybean had to be removed from the fermented mash. In order to bypass this process, and among other reasons, Shoyu producers started using defatted soybeans. So, unless indicated (label), most Shoyu is made with defatted soybeans. Nothing wrong with that and it probably makes sense in terms of the mass production process.

But, the traditional method of using whole soybeans has an edge. The oil from the whole soybean turns into glycerin during fermentation and gives the Shoyu a milder taste and some people like that. Thus, like any product marketing, Shoyu using whole soybeans is added to the product line-up. And, yes you've guessed it - whole soybeans produced organically are added to the fleet of products as well, which leads us to the next variety.

Organic Shoyu
For those of you who are into organic food, this is your choice of Shoyu. Yes, certified by the USDA and QAI (this is not a spy agency; it stands for Quality Assurance International), organic Shoyu is available, too, using only organically grown soybean and wheat. Oh, for those who don’t want wheat, there’s Organic Tamari Wheat Free Shoyu. Wait, it gets even better - can you imagine going into a local grocery store and asking “Do you have Organic, Reduced-Sodium, Wheat-Free Tamari Shoyu?” If they don’t carry such a product, go online. You’ll most likely find it there.

Soy Sauce for Sushi and Sashimi
It seems like there is really no standard definition to this variety, often referring to Tamari or Saishikomi. In fact, the middle bottle in the photo reads Premium Quality Whole Grain Sashimi Shoyu with an additional mentioning of the type of Shoyu, which reads Saishikomi. Some makers produce this variation using their Koikuchi Shoyu with Mirin (Japanese sweet cooking wine), Konbu (kelp) stock and/or other natural flavorings to make it milder and sweeter. Although, my understanding is, once other flavorings such as Mirin or Konbu are added, technically it is no longer categorized as Shoyu.

Finally, as mentioned earlier, some Japanese soy sauces are made here in the U.S. and many imported from Japan. The two main Japanese brands, Kikkoman and Yamasa, have factories in the U.S.; you’ve probably seen some of their products at major super markets across the country. Some of their imported versions, as well as other imported brands with various types and varieties, can be found at Japanese grocery stores and online.

Confused? I don’t blame you. I think even the Japanese are. Well, after all, we do live in a world where one major brand sells 7 different flavors of shaving cream. Just start with the regular type. Purchase a dispenser or a small bottle at first, check out the taste and compare with other brands. Then, try another type or variety and find the one that best suits your tastes and needs.

Just remember to purchase the one that says Naturally Brewed Soy Sauce on the front or back label. We’ll look into the brewing process and revisit the Shoyu topic more in the near future, simply because Shoyu rules!

Oh, by the way, once you open the bottle, always close the lid tightly and keep it refrigerated or in a cool place. Shoyu is really sensitive to high temperatures and exposure to air, so keep it tight and cool folks, and have a wonderful Shoyu Day!